3 Meals: Where to eat in Salzburg, Austria
Comforting homey meals are mainstays on menus throughout the Austrian Alps. From schnitzel with noodles to crisp apple strudel, here are a few of my favorite things to eat in Salzburg.
We went to Zwettler’s on recommendation of our innkeeper on a cool drizzly night in Salzburg. We were craving something warm that would stick to our ribs and the Austrian classics at Zwettler’s were just the ticket. Housed in a building originally built in 1516 Zwettler’s is guarded by a heavy wooden door that reveals a cozy space filled with blonde wooden furniture and alpine kitsch covering the walls. Steve being the carnivore he is went straight for the weiner schnitzel, one of Austria’s most famous culinary contributions.This thinly pounded and breaded veal cutlet easily occupied 75% of the plate leaving a little real estate for some parsley potatoes and the all important lemon wedge to squeeze over your disk of veal. I, wanting something “lighter”, ordered the vegetarian spinach dumplings. Expecting something akin to gnocchi I learned just how serious Austria is about dumplings when two green-flecked, softball sized behemoths arrived at my table. While tasty I could barely finish half of one of the dumplings.
Cafe Tomaselli was our introduction to Austrian cafe culture. You’ve got to love a culture that encourages you to linger over fancified coffee and delicious pastry for several hours. A cultural icon in Salzburg Cafe Tomaselli has been operating since 1705 and was a frequent stop for Salzburg’s favorite son, Amadeus Mozart, as well as generations of the royal family. Located in Salzburg’s Altstadt(Old Town) near the Cathedral this cafe is popular with both locals and tourists. Service is very traditional, you’ll first be visited by the coffeehouse waiter,wearing his signature black dinner jacket and bow tie who will help you select your beverage. This is followed by the cake server, ladies in white aprons who present a tray of delectable cakes and pastries to choose from. I was tempted to tell her to leave the entire tray but I figured that would be a tad gluttonous. We opted for the traditional cafe melange, a cup of mocha with milk capped with whipped cream which is brought to the table on a silver tray with a glass of water. As for desserts Steve went for one his favorites, a flaky cheese strudel while I couldn’t resist the walnuss tort(walnut cake)- layers of nutty cake with a light creamy frosting topped with a fondant of marzipan. Cafe Tomaselli is a great place to satisfy your sweet tooth.
Craving a nicer dinner our innkeeper directed us to Triangel. Convenient to the Salzburg Festhaus and Rupertinum Modern Art Museum, Triangel serves updated Austrian classics. The decor is modern and homey at the same time, a contemporary twist on alpine kitsch. Triangel was filled with well heeled Salzburgers as well as people attending a show at the Salzburg Festhaus. A glass of local white wine for me(Austrian Gruner Veltliner) and an erdinger eidelweiss beer for Steve started our meal. Steve again went traditional ordering ghoulash with dumplings in a slightly smokey paprika sauce. I ordered roasted chicken over pumpkin risotto drizzled with Styrian pumpkin seed oil which lent a nice nuttiness to the dish. If you visit Austria in the fall you’ll find menus featuring pumpkin dishes usually prepared as a savory dish in contrast to the American fascination with pumpkin as dessert.The chicken was moist and juicy with perfectly crispy skin, it was pretty darn close to chicken nirvana.
The charming town of Salzburg has some great restaurants featuring local Austrian fare. What are some of your favorite alpine dishes?
If you enjoy 3 Meals: Where to eat in Salzburg, you may like