The ancient Mayan city of Tikal conjures up otherworldly images of mystical pyramids rising above the dense, steamy jungles of Guatemala. I was drawn to the area in order to explore the ruins of of one of the most powerful Pre-Columbian civilizations in the Americas and I left with some of my most surreal travel experiences to date. Our journey started in the border town of San Ignacio, Belize; popular for its proximity to a multitude of Mayan sites (many people do Tikal as a day trip from Belize as well). Joining our guide Max we crossed the border on foot, a first for me and I do admit to being slightly nervous walking by the guards with AK-47s.Once we safely passed Max ushered us to the dusty jeep he had arranged for the 2 hour journey. After a brief stop at a roadside stand for homemade tamales (the best in Guatemala we were assured and yes, they were indeed tasty), we arrived at the gates of Tikal National Park. It was here that Max informed us that he would not be able to personally guide us as he picked up one of the many locals standing at the gates offering guide services. Raul introduced himself, flashing a partially toothless grin and began telling us about his 10 children from his 3 ex-wives. Raul accompanied us on the “sunset” tour which lasted from about 3:00 – 5:30 pm as all visitors needed to be out of the park by dusk. He was a jovial fellow but being a tour guide just wasn’t his calling. In between telling us stories of his childhood antics he would make a reference to King Chocolate, look at us quizzically asking “Riiigght???”, expecting an answer. Steve and I would glance at each other not quite knowing what to say before assuring Raul that he was indeed right. (Note: King Chocolate did indeed exist, his name was Au Cacao and he ruled Tikal around 700 A.D.He also favored a drink featuring his namesake pod, honey and vanilla presumably sparking the our worldwide obsession with chocolate). Raul did show us around the major sites at Tikal ( an UNESCO World Heritage Site) which were impressive. Our first stop the Great Plaza which is home to Temple I, Temple II and both the Northern and Central Acropolises; this plaza was the center of public life and was home to ritualistic ceremonies, theatrical performances and sporting events. Raul let us explore on our own and being that most of the day trippers had left we largely had the plaza to ourselves. While Temples I and II are not considered safe to climb you are allowed to scale the Northern Acropolis which affords some fantastic photo opportunities.
Satisfied with our time at the Great Plaza Raul led us through the jungle path pointing out wildlife as we passed Temple III(coatis, howler monkeys, turkeys and variety of birds are common.A lucky few may catch a glimpse of an ocelot or the rare jaguar). We made our way to Temple IV and began climbing the wooden stairway built alongside the Temple. Close to the top we stopped at a landing to glimpse the view made famous George Lucas, the view of Temples I, II and III rising above the jungle was featured as the planet Yavin 4 in Star Wars Episode 4: A New Hope. We made a brief stop at the top of Temple IV and hurried back down to our hotel as the park was soon closing for the evening.
We parted ways with Raul and met our original guide Max at the Tikal Inn, one of two hotels located within the park. Max arranged for dinner, showed us to our room and left us with some pastries and snacks for the next morning. Climbing ancient ruins in the Guatemalan jungle can be a sweaty ordeal and a shower was in tall order. While I was preparing to shower Steve noticed I had a gift from my day at Tikal- a nice dose of some weird jungle rash (Luckily it didn’t itch and it was gone by the time I woke the next morning). The rooms at Tikal Inn are basic and electricity is turned off after 10 pm. No electricity=no fan, which coupled with the fact that the room had only one window and no cross breeze made for quite an uncomfortable night of sleep.
Morning came very early with a frantic knock at the door at 4 am telling us to hurry or we would be late. We were caught a little off guard as we were told the night before to be ready to go at 4:30 in order to watch the sunrise from the top of Temple IV. The knocker never told us his name but we grabbed our flashlights and followed this stranger through the jungle(which in hindsight kind of sounds like a bad idea). This guy was going at break neck pace and I had some trouble trying to keep up without tripping over any errant tree branches or stopping to wonder what the glowing pairs of eyes staring at me through the dark jungle night belonged to. We reached the top of Temple IV to discover that we were the first ones there. Well, almost the first ones. A lone Japanese girl, without shoes, was curled up sleeping at the top of Temple IV. She apparently hid in the park and spent the night on top of an Mayan Temple. From time to time I often wonder about her story. Where did she come from? Why was she sleeping on top of a Mayan Temple in the middle of the Guatemalan jungle? And lastly, where were her shoes? These contemplations would have to wait as we took a seat waiting for the sun rise. We were joined by an Australian family who had met up with their backpacking son on his gap year and a wealthy South African man. Chatting with our new friends, we munched on the cinnamon rolls provided to us by Max the night before(thinking just how surreal it was to be eating cinnamon rolls on top of a Mayan temple), and watched the jungle wake up as the day began.
We left Tikal with awe of the mighty structures left behind by an ancient civilization as well as the surreal memories that had us wondering “Did that really happen?”. What are some of your strangest travel stories?
Sharon says
I love Tikal!! I love how it is semi jungle covered and how easy it is to explore parts alone.
Brianna says
I loved how uncrowded Tikal was as well as how closely we could explore the ruins.
Michele {Malaysian Meanders} says
What a great adventure. It’s interesting what travel will make you do, like follow an unnamed stranger through a pre-dawn jungle. I thought almost all of Star Wars was CGI, so it’s interesting to know that Lucas took time to do some actual landscape filming. Now, I want to go and find that scene to match it up with your photo. Last of all, I wonder how bad was the rash on the Japanese girl after spending all night up there. At least, she probably had a breeze.
Brianna says
Aside from seeing the amazing ruins I did come home with a good story. Thanks for stopping by!
Stacey says
That’s so awesome!
Okay, so it sounds a little funny when you say you followed strangers through the dark jungle with wildlife all around wanting to eat you. It also sounds strange when you talk about the Japanese girl who no shoes but hey, it was all part of the adventure…
I wonder what did happen to her shoes… and why she decided to sleep there…
Brianna says
Hindsight is 20/20 right?
Dennis Kopp says
Brianna, thanks for sharing your beautiful Tikal photos. They are bringing back great memories as I visited the ruins almost 20 years ago. Unfortunately we only spent one day there and it wasn’t even as exciting as yours. We had no AK-47s, no strange guide in darkness, no jungle rash and no shoe-less Japanese girl, but the temples were still really stunning… 🙂
Brianna says
I’m betting much hasn’t changed in 20 years. The temples are stunning and it was amazing to be able to explore them crowd free.
frankaboutcroatia says
Lol, Rayl seems like an interesting character. I imagine him getting into this guiding business and somebody instructing him that the only important thing is to talk – childhood, ex wives, kids, … just talk. And now I’m going to google this Japanese girl!
Brianna says
I really wonder what she’s up to!
Adelina | PackMeTo says
What a cool way to take in the sunrise! And that one Japanese lady – sounds like the makings of a fabulous fictional story. 🙂
Brianna says
Travels of a barefoot geisha?
Corinne says
Brianna, What a great story. I haven’t been to Tikal, but it calls to me for sure! I would do the same thing and blindly follow someone before realizing, hey, is this a good idea. It must be!
Brianna says
Well, I came out alright in the end and I now have a great story!
Ashley @ A Southern Gypsy says
I love visiting ruins and these photos are great! Thanks for linking up to the #SundayTraveler! 🙂
Brianna says
It was very cool being able to explore these ruins, and now I have some interesting stories to tell.
Angela Travels says
What a great experience (maybe minus the jungle funk). It is interesting that you are basically handed over to a local for a guide. Loved your photos and story.
Brianna says
I really loved getting to explore the ruins. I hadn’t expected to get handed to another guide either but when traveling you just have to go with the flow.
Lyn says
I have never been to Tikal or even seen or heard of a Coati so thanks for sharing this great read and wondferful pictures.
Brianna says
Coati are very common throughout Central and South America, They are very cute!
Hannah says
Sounds like an awesome experience- I’d be a little wary too crossing the boarder by foot with gunmen around! eek! I’m glad your jungle rash went away and wasn’t anything too serious
Brianna says
The border crossing was just surreal, like I was in a movie.
Alli says
Amazing Tikal photos! That’s quite a rash . . . ! I had one similar when I was in Egypt – weird place for a rash, that’s why I think it must’ve been just a heat rash 🙂
Brianna says
I’m glad you like the photos, you’re bounds to get a few good shots somewhere like this. Hmm, a rash in Egypt? Maybe we’re allergic to pyramids!
IntrovertlyBubbly says
Beautiful…you tour guide sounds hilarious. I recently went on a trip with a tour guide gone wrong also we endured the enter tour with her while looking at other groups with perfect tour guides, sort of tour envy. So after we approached another tour guide and politely said we lost our tour guide can you give us a brief on what we missed…He was a gentleman and gave us a run down of the entire site…we just couldn’t bring ourselves it to report or complain blatantly about our half-ass tour guide as she did present lots of enthusiasm and seemed none the wiser. We did however make a general comment to the lead in hopes that in the future it would be improved.
Brianna says
I love how you stealthily switched tour guides. Ninja!
Amy says
Gotta love the jungle funk! I can relate – I’m the queen of picking up the weirdest rashes on the road. Great pictures! Would love to visit there some day!
Brianna says
The rash was so random! Tikal is definitely worth the effort and minor mishaps.
Muriel says
What an awesome story and experience! Aside from the AK-47s of course. Great photos!
I hope your skin cleared up after the jungle adventures.
Brianna says
The rash was temporary but the memories are forever!
Alexandra C. says
Oh no! Jungle funk! That’s no good. The temples are gorgeous though! Never really thought much about Guatemala…. but it looks really beautiful! Thanks for sharing! 🙂 -Alexandra
Simply Alexandra: My Favorite Things
Brianna says
Tikal definitely takes a little effort to get to but was totally worth it.
Bianca @itsallbee says
Oh dear, Hope you recovered well from that Jungle funk! Beautiful pictures although I would have been freaked out at the sight of strange light bulb eyes staring at me in the jungle. Looks like the morning trek was well worth it for the views.
Brianna says
Luckily for me it was too early in the morning to really think about all the eyes staring back at me from the dark. Watching the sunrise from the top of a Mayan pyramid was a once in a lifetime experience.
Samantha says
That’d be a stunning place to watch the sunrise. Yikes hopefully you didn’t get the jungle rash again! it’s weird, I find you get all sorts of weird things when you live in a tropical country.
Brianna says
The sunrise and the temples were well worth all my other misadventures.
Simone says
Definitely a crazy adventure! Nice story telling, I felt like I was there with you guys. The pictures added to the story and I have to say my favorite was of the coati! We have had a few misadventures through out our travels as well. Thanks for sharing
Brianna says
Thanks for stopping by ,the coatis are so cute!
Kate says
I absolutely loved Tikal. The history of the Mayan people was fascinating too. Our guide was really good and had heaps of knowledge about the area. I’m terrified of heights but made it up the temple to the top and the views did not disappoint. Your experience at sunset sounded fantastic. Did you ever find out any more about the Japanese girl?! Great photos and brilliant post
Brianna says
I was surprised how steep the pyramids were, could you imagine climbing them without the additional stairs?
Anu @ Country Hopping Couple says
Misadventures like this do make us better travellers for tomorrow isn’t it? Although that jungle funk is not looking good at all, but all the more glad it went off the next day! Those mayan temples and the views do compensate for all those misadventures you guys faced! Would love to visit these places!
Brianna says
They always make for good stories later don’t they?
Jessica (Barcelona Blonde) says
This sounds like such an awesome place (in spite of the jungle funk and all…) I’d love to go someday! Your pictures are fantastic.
Brianna says
I felt a bit like Indiana Jones(despite the jungle funk).
Jen Seligmann says
What an adventure you had! I love the ups and downs that travel throws at you. It makes it much more interesting and gives you an awesome story to tell.
Brianna says
They always make for a better story once you get home.
christine says
very interesting article and amazing pictures!!
Brianna says
Thanks for stopping by!
Margherita @The Crowded Planet says
Sounds amazing. I would love to visit Tikal, I’ve heard a lot about it. Shame for the misty sunrise, I hate it when that happens!
Brianna says
Despite the misty sunrise it was still pretty cool watching the jungle wake up.
Chris Boothman says
This looks like a really cool adventure exploring some more beautiful Mayan ruins. There is so much to see throughout Central America and it’s great to know some of the lesser known quantities that are out there. Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
Brianna says
I’ve only recently started to explore Central America, its amazing what a different world it is so close to home!
Rachel says
I think that any day that starts with a 4.30am jungle trek on the dark would be surreal! I have that same feeling when I do dawn bat surveys and then go back to bed after; I always wonder did I dream doing the survey…
I’ll be it was worth the trek though 🙂
Brianna says
It was totally worth the trek. Where do you survey bats?
Rand says
Tikal is one amazing place, and one place I would like to visit again. It’s pretty amazing they are still uncovering many ruins!
Brianna says
I know! the jungle is slowly revealing its secrets.
Heather Cole says
Gosh, this brings back some memories! We got engaged at the top of Temple IV a few years back, although it was in the blistering heat of the afternoon rather than sunrise. Very special place 🙂