It’s no secret that I travel to eat, I find that food is one of the best ways to experience a destination. For my first trip to Mexico I wanted to immerse myself in it’s cuisine, from vibrant salsas to smokey moles and everything in between, I wanted to experience Mexico’s diverse food culture on a deeper level. This is what led me to La Villa Bonita, a hands-on cooking school and boutique hacienda in Central Mexico’s highlands.
Tepotzlan, just over hour drive from Mexico City, is one of Mexico’s “Pueblos Magicos” or magic villages. Known as the Sedona of Mexico, Tepotzlan offers up the chance to explore a side of Mexico that many visitors to the country don’t know about. This small colonial mountain town, is anchored by an historic convent made more beautiful with the patina of time while the Tepozteco mountains rise up from the green valley capped with the ruins of an ancient Aztec pyramid. Vibrant murals line the cobblestone streets where abuelas can be spotted making tortilla and tlacoyo by hand. Well off the usual tourist path, Tepotzlan offers up an authentic Mexican experience.
As soon as I arrived at La Villa Bonita I felt instantly welcomed, warmly greeted by Chef Ana Garcia with a hug and a margarita. It was then I started to take in my surroundings, the bright open air kitchen was highlighted with the tools of Chef Ana’s trade; local handmade ceramics hanging from the wall, bowls of peaches and limes from the onsite orchard and views of the limestone Tepozteco mountains all around. The kitchen truly is a culinary sanctuary and where I’d be spending the majority of the next few days getting a taste of authentic Mexican cuisine.
While the kitchen and the opportunity to learn about Central Mexican cooking are what brought me to La Villa Bonita the rest of the hacienda was just as inviting. Each of La Villa Bonita’s six white adobe rooms open up onto a central courtyard, with hummingbirds zipping around the gardens and the Garcia’s friendly lab Mojo greeting us every time we came out. I could have spent my entire trip at the pool, with stunning views of the Tepozteco mountains, and had an amazing trip. But alas, there was cooking and eating to do.
Our day started with a leisurely breakfast of sopes, a savory pancake made from masa, topped with black beans and diced cactus finished with guajillo sauce and a drizzle of crema. This was followed by a homemade sweetbread, fragrant with oranges picked the day before from Chef Ana’s own garden. A quick walk through the cobblestone streets of Tepotzlan brought us to the open air market to get the ingredients we would need for dinner later. Being a Saturday morning the market was bustling;vendors offered everything from vibrant produce and local meats to fresh juices and indigenous dishes. Young girls learned how to make fresh tortilla from their abuelas while a salsa band provided the soundtrack for our market morning.
Back at La Villa Bonita, it was time to get to work. No matter your level of culinary knowledge, Chef Ana will have you whipping up Mexican specialties in no time. The open air kitchen was a buzz of peeling, chopping, roasting and laughing while preparing Chiles en Nogada, a traditional dish of Central Mexico. Roasted poblano peppers are stuffed with a spiced meat and fruit filling that is then topped with a creamy walnut sauce and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds. The green of the poblanos, the white of the walnut sauce and the red from the pomegranate are representative of the Mexican flag and the dish is typically served to celebrated Mexican Independence Day (which is September 16, not May 5 by the way). We had our hands on every step of the dish, from grinding the fragrant spices by hand in a traditional molcajete to charring poblanos over an open flame to peeling the skins from each individual walnut (a painstaking but necessary step to ensure the walnut sauce isn’t bitter), there are no short cuts taken though the strawberry mezcal margaritas certainly made the time go by. Come dinnertime our afternoon’s work was well rewarded, a beautiful dish with flavor combinations I’ve never had, the warm spices and fruit balance out the smokiness of the poblano while the brightness of the pomegranate pops against the richness of the walnut sauce. This is Mexican food like I’ve never had before.
La Villa Bonita offers packages ranging from two days to one week and everything in between, trips can also be tailored to your wishes as well. Chef Ana’s love and connection to the local community is evident with visits to local markets, artisan, farmers and purveyors a hallmark of the La Villa Bonita experience. While Tepotzlan is a gorgeous setting to learn about Central Mexican cuisine Chef Ana and her team also offer special weeks throughout Mexico highlighting different regional foods and cultural events. Head to Sayulita for a taste of the Pacific Coast (days here include deep sea fishing and whale watching) or get caught up in the celebrations of Puebla’s La Feria del Huipil.
While I certainly enjoyed the beautiful setting and delicious food, my favorite part of La Villa Bonita was the people. I left Tepoztlan with a full belly, a new appreciation of Mexican food and lifelong friends. I’ll definitely be back.
I was graciously hosted by La Villa Bonita but all opinions remain my own.
Lillie says
This looks DELICIOUS!
Brianna says
Lillie, you don’t even know. The food here was amazing!
Susan Burke says
La Villa Bonita is one of my favorite places. I’ve been three times I think. I plan to go again. Ive made many of Ana’s dishes at home. Luckily in my area you can find all the ingredients. The best cooking classes I have taken anywhere! Your photos and write up were inspiring.
Brianna says
Susan, I’m thrilled you enjoyed my post! Ana’ has really created something special here and it shows a side of Mexico many don’t get to see.
Tammy says
How do you get there from DF? Or to Sayulita?
Brianna says
Tammy, La Villa Bonita will arrange transportation for you from DF to Tepoztlan and for Sayulita you will fly into Puert Vallarta and they again will arrange transportation.
Chloe LIN says
AWWW the food and pictures look so good! I should definitely check out Mexico and this wonderful place you recommend. 🙂
Brianna says
You definitely should!
Lyn @ A Hole in my Shoe says
This looks like an amazing experience, I love the white bedroom too.
Brianna says
It reminds me of the Flintstones 🙂
Sarah Stierch says
Wow, what a beautiful place and experience. The food looks amazing. What will you be making with what you learned? 🙂
Brianna says
I will definitely make tamales and mole!
Supriya says
Lovely! How I wish they had something in Tulum too – we’re headed there next and something like this would have been delightful! 😊
Brianna says
Perhaps Tulum would be a good idea for one of their special weeks, what do you think Ana?
Monika says
I loved Mexican cuisine – it’s probably the most important reason why one day I’ll go back to Mexico 🙂
Brianna says
A woman after my own heart!
Carol from Wayfaring Views says
Those roasted pasilla peppers look delicious. I’ll have to try the over-the-stove technique. I usually roast them in the oven.
Brianna says
Roasting over the stove was super easy!
Karlaroundtheworld says
Good view and good food? This definitely makes this to the top of my list.
Brianna says
hat’s what drew me here!
Bryanna says
I love the idea of immersing yourself in the culture by learning how to cook how the locals do. Like you mentioned the cooking was amazing and it sounded like the hacienda was too! I have never thought about taking a culinary vacation but now I want too!
Brianna says
I highly recommend it, you really get to know your destination on a different level!
Jennifer says
First, the villa looks gorgeous! And second, I am totally drooling over all the food in this post. As an expat, Mexican food is one of the things I really miss from North America. It’s impossible to find anything decent and it’s some modified version of Tex-Mex. It looks like you had an absolutely delicious time!
Brianna says
While I love Europe, Mexican food is one thing they don’t do well.
Elaine J Masters says
Sounds like a wonderful experience. If I could slow my schedule down, it would be wonderful to spend days working with a regional chef on mastering local dishes. I am so fond of Mexico and love exploreing its regional cuisines.
Brianna says
Elaine, if you can spare a few days I highly recommend making the trip to La VIlla Bonita!
Carla Abanes says
You have lovely photos here. And that white bedroom! I can live there forever! Thanks for sharing your wonderful experience.
Brianna says
It was fabulous waking up in that room and stumbling out to the patio for coffee with a view!
Gokul Raj says
The pics of those dishes are driving me crazy. Looks so yum. Only if i could my hand on them.
Megan Jerrard says
Sounds like an absolutely amazing experience – we recently visited Cancun, though that part of the country obviously exists in a very large tourist bubble, and we didn’t get any of the authenticity you’ve described. I love that La Villa Bonita is so hands on! Sounds like a fabulous experience, and so fantastic that you came home with both recipes and friendships too!
Mike Cotton says
I’ve travelled to Mexico, the south-east corner (Cancun and down) and found the array of food incredible. I particularly liked how they used more corn based tortillas compared to our western wheat ones. Now I’m hungry for some Mexican food 🙂
Brianna says
Corn tortillas are the best!
Susanna Kelly says
I got a glimpse of this on instagram, so it was cool to read about and see your full experience! This looks like such a cool place to have some authentic food and experiences. Not to mention that jungle view!
Brianna says
I fell hard for La Villa Bonita, it is such a lovely place!
Skye says
Love that you were greeted with a hug and a margarita. That’s Mexico to me. Love it. Unfortunately, we missed Tepotzlan while we were in Mexico but you’ve made me want to put it on the schedule for next time. Really well written and love the photos. Takes me back to Mexico.
Mar Pages says
Such a lovely looking hacienda/school! Love the simple but gorgeous decor. The food look so fresh and delicious, great share!I will definitely look to escape to a place like this!
Chloe LIN says
Oh really love this! So sweet and lovely!
Christopher says
Simpily awesome. I love the mural of the lady with the bird. I also love the colours of the fresh produce. I should really take up some cooking classes in cities abroad. I love cooking, so much fun. the place looks beautiful.
Priya says
Thanks for sharing, never heard of Tepotzlan before. It looks beautiful and aptly called the “Pueblos Magicos” or magic villages. Would love to someday visit this Sedona of Mexico,
sarah says
Mexico is one of our favorite countries and food is definitely one of the reasons.
Yesh says
Love the colour, vibrancy and freshness of Mexican food. Such a delightful read.
Victoria says
Wow! looks delicious! Mexican food is definitely one of my favorite. Can you please give a caption on picture 2?