With centuries of history, cobblestone streets with ivy covered buildings and a location convenient to Rome’s most visited sites Trastevere is one of Rome’s most popular neighborhoods. Located across the Tiber River from Rome’s historic center Trastevere hums with the life of Rome’s storied past and it’s vibrant present. Wandering the labyrinth of Trastavere’s cobblestone streets and bustling piazzas you’ll find cozy cafes, timeless trattorias and lively bars but with all of these options where are the best places to eat in Trastevere?
I was graciously hosted by Eating Europe but as always all opinions remain my own. The Casual Travelist contains affiliate links, when you make a purchase or book a hotel through these links the Casual Travelist receives a small commission that helps support this site at no additional cost to you.
Rome is timeless and it’s always a good time to visit Rome no matter what time of year. Whether you come to Rome for two days or two weeks Trastavere is a must for any trip to the Eternal City. Rome is full of hidden gems and we stayed in Trastevere not only to get a feel of authentic Roman life but also because the Vatican, Colosseum, Roman Forum and Trevi Fountain were all within a 30 minute walk. We took Eating Europe’s Twilight Trastavere tour on our first evening in Rome to not only to discover a bit more about the neighborhood we were staying in but also to find out the good places to eat. We also found some amazing restaurants in Trastavere on the recommendations from locals and friends who come to Rome frequently.
Giselda Forno
Mornings in Rome start at the cafe and I had the good fortune to wander into Giselda Forno one rainy morning and it soon became a regular stop during my time in Rome. Locals and visitors flock to this bright modern cafe each morning for hand-crafted cappuccino along with a cornetto; a sinfully good pastry similar to a croissant that is delightful on it’s own but even better filled with jam, chocolate or pastry cream (my personal favorite). The best part is this quick tasty breakfast will set you back less than 3 euro. After breakfast Giselda has a fantastic deli with a wide variety of cheeses, salumi, fresh baked bread, pizza and desserts.
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La Norcineria Lacozzilli
Porchetta ( roasted pork rubbed with salt,garlic, olive oil, rosemary and fennel ) is an Italian favorite and La Norcineria Lacozzilli is widely regarded to have some of the best porchetta in the Rome. Incredibly tender with the crispiest skin, porchetta is best simply served in crusty bread as a porchetta panino. In operation since 1924 today you’ll find 3 generations of the Lacozzilli family serving up paper-thin slices of prosciutto as well as salumi and cheeses from across Italy in addition to their famed porchetta.
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Sisini La Casa del Suppli
Suppli (rice balls with tomato sauce stuffed with mozzarella cheese and fried until golden brown and delicious) are a favorite Roman street snack and nowhere does them better than Sisini La Casa del Suppli. This restaurant is tiny so it’s best to get your suppli to go while wandering the streets of Travestere and at $1.50 euro a pop suppli are an affordably tasty way to fuel your sightseeing adventures. Rice not your thing? No problem, they also serve pizza al taglio as well.
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Meridionale
At Meridionale elevated Italian food doesn’t have to come with an elevated price. The recently renovated space is both modern and homey and while the fresh pastas are great, seafood is the star here. From the octopus and potato galette to the pistachio crusted tuna Meridionale highlights the best seafood from the Mediterannean. Be sure to leave room for their decadent tiramisu.
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Trapizzino
What’s better than pizza? A pizza cone, that’s what and is the specialty at Trapizzino. With a soft yet crispy crust these handheld delights are filled with everything from classic meatballs in tomato sauce ( popetto al sugo, I’d eat these every day if I could) to chicken cacciatore (pollo alla cacciatora) and even beef tongue in salsa verde (lingua in salsa verde). Trapizzino’s popularity has lead to restaurants throughout Italy and even two outposts in New York.
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La Boticella
Take an impossibly cute trattoria complete with red checkered table cloths, add a nonna who not only cooks up classic Roman dishes but also takes the time to tie a bib on you if you have a particularly saucy dish (because she is an Italian grandmother through and through) and you’ve got La Boticella. Nothing fancy or stuffy here at La Boticella but this is the food you imagine having when you come to Rome. Start your dinner with fried zucchini blossoms, crispy and filled with creamy ricotta and anchovies before digging into the simple perfection of spaghetti alla carbonara. If you’ve worked up a heartier appetite the oxtail braised with celery, carrots and tomatoes is fall-off-the bone tender and completely bib worthy.
Le Levain
This petite French bakery creates some of the best bread, pastries and desserts in Rome. Locals line up for Le Levain’s sourdough boules and classic baguettes (which are even more amazing when made into a sandwich with prosciutto and brie) and a glass case displays their artful desserts ranging from eclairs and macarons to fanciful tarts and decadent cakes.
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Da Enzo Al 29
A five minute walk from the bank of the Tiber River Da Enzo Al 29 has been serving up Roman classics for decades. Prosecco with prosciutto and burrata is a great way to start your evening while the carciofo alla guidia (Jewish-style artichokes) and pasta amatriciana (tomato sauce studded with thick cut pancetta) make Da Enzo a neighborhood favorite.
Trattoria Casa Mia
Whether you dine in the cozy dining room or the intimate garden courtyard the staff at Trattoria Casa Mia will welcome you like family. Overflowing platters of cacio y pepe and pasta amatricana are served family style and the wine is free flowing. End your meal with Trattoria Casa Mia’s airy tiramisu and a glass of limoncello.
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Spirito diVino
In the oldest part of Travestere in a building dating back to the 11th century Spirito diVino pays homage to Rome’s culinary heritage. Pork prepared Mazio style in red wine with celeriac and apple puree was a favorite of Julius Caesar. A copy of the Statue of an Athlete by the Greek sculptor Lisippo dating back to the 4th century was excavated in the historic wine cellar and is now displayed in the Vatican Museum.
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Fatamorgana
If you go to Rome and don’t get gelato did you really even go to Rome? I judge by a gelato by it’s pistaschio and Fatamorgana’s is intensely creamy with the purest essence of pistaschio. Gianduja (chocolate hazelnut) is another Italian classic that is rich and indugent. With over 30 flavors that change seasonally and many vegan and gluten free options Fatamorgana is widely recognized as having some of the best gelato in Rome.
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Leigh says
O.M.G. – that all looks amazing! I just did a tour with Eating Europe in Prague – it was wonderful, I’ll definitely look them up if I ever get to Rome!
Jean says
La Norcineria Lacozzilli looks delicious. Did you find any decent coffee in Rome?
Danik says
Good guide to know. The reason I say that is everytime I go to Italy (and I love the country by the way), it just seems endless restaurants with pizzas in it. In Roma I had pizza twice. I was getting sick of it (but that was in my younger years when I went there). Hoping to make a return trip soon so if I do, I be wanting to check out restaurants like this.
Jenn and Ed Coleman says
You convinced me that I need to eat my way through Rome! OMG everything looks so good. I am in love with the Suppli but I don’t think their keto. I also don’t think I care;)
Indrani says
I could do only the popular tourist spots of Rome because of time crunch. Wish I could tour through Travestere. Love the Pizza cone. Good list of eating joints there.
Rosemary says
What a delicious tour of Rome. When I first visited more than 15 years ago, I remember struggling to find something good and local. Indeed, taking food tours does expose you to so much more. Those rice balls look divine and of course, you can’t wrong with gelato! Will certainly check out Eating Europe on our next European food quest.
Lisa says
I could definitely do with a bright modern cafe like Giselda Forno every day! Pizza cone = yes, please! ๐ And of course, no trip to Italy would be complete without gelato ๐จ
Christina says
There’s something rather romantic about dining in a cafe in Rome. The last time I was there I had so little time to “smell the roses”. Next time, I’m going on a cafe hop and I’m definitely trying that delicious-looking pizza cone!
Tami says
You were smart to take the Twilight Travestere tour when you first arrived — so good for orienting yourself to the area. I wish I’d taken more time to enjoy the restaurants in Rome. To save money, we bought groceries at a local grocery store and cooked in our apartment. That meant we didn’t get much local cuisine (because I don’t know how to cook it!), and also missed being out in the evenings. But we did frequent several wonderful gelato places, so it wasn’t all bad!
Archana Singh says
I love Italy for its food. And, no place like Rome. Waking up every morning for a hand-crafted cappuccino along with a cornetto is my kinda thing. The pastry looks delish.
Kinga Gorski says
Oh my goodness.. those hanging vines at that patio restaurant are stunning! And that pizza/calzone looking item is *droolworthy* !!!!
Valentina says
This brings me back! I’ll never forget eating those Suppli in Rome!! Although, I have to say, it’s the gelato that I miss the most. If anyone needs tips on how to spot the real gelato in Italy, below ๐
https://valentinasdestinations.com/the-best-gelato-in-italy/
Dean Smith says
All of them look amazing!